Negril, Prescription for Relaxation

Mornings on Negril beach

USairways is alright with me. Our A321 aircraft, connecting from Charlotte to Montego Bay with a capacity of 185 passengers had 34 passengers on board. They could have cancelled the flight but that did not happen. And I just love the fact that 100% of their fleet has internet access 37,000 feet in the clouds. Hubby, Mr Silk, my big brother J Fox and myself were on our way to da island to chill.

This has been a very busy travel year for me; hitting Paris, Rio, Buenos Aires, Bahia, Rome, Greek Isles, Dubai and South Africa. So I welcomed the opportunity to spend a week lazing on a white sandy beach in a special place I once called home for 3 years.

Arriving at the Tree House Resort is always like a big welcome home from relatives you haven’t seen in awhile. Hugs and a big dose of love is the order of the day from the staff you may have come to know over the years and if owner, the lovely, very charming Gail Jackson happens to be on the property; you will receive a personal “Welcome to the Tree house”.

The temperature was in the 80’s with a slight breeze blowing from the sea. Fitzroy was longing to take a swim in the warm turquoise water but we had to hurry to his mother’s house for a reunion of sorts. It’s been 18 months plus his sister, Lorraine, who he hadn’t seen in 6 years flew in from Connecticut today for a cousin’s wedding. She is the cake baker and the wedding coordinator for this blessed event and My husband, Mr Silk will sing at the wedding, which will be at a small out of the way place called, Paul Island,where everybody knows each other. This is hubby’s Indian side of the family. When East Indian and Jamaican blacks mix they are called “Royals”. The combination brings a beautiful mixture of the 2 cultures. For those that have tasted Fitzroy’s curried chicken and roti understand full hundred (100%). His curried dishes out distance any typical ones you’ve tasted at your local Indian or Chinese restaurants.
Later this week I will be sure to post pictures of the wedding.

We arrived at my mother-in-laws and the kitchen was bustling with activity. Her husband, Mr Rick, the fisherman had provided a barrel of fresh fish and Bigga, Fitzroy’s uncle had been summoned to fry and escovitch the fish (escovitch is sautéing sliced onions and the hot scotch bonnet peppers in oil and vinegar and then pouring the concoction over the fry fish. Here in Jamaica, it’s not called fried fish but “fry” fish. Bigga also had to kill, clean and curry the goat. Jamaicans celebrating any special event is time to curry a goat and it must be a ram goat. Mr. Rick also prepared a special order for Fitzroy, “fish tea”, a spicy soup in the Caribbean that can take 4 hours to prepare, pounds of fish, carrots, yellow yam, boiled green banana, flavored with coconut milk, seasoned with thyme, scallions and other seasonings. We dined sufficiently on a wonderful welcome home meal.

The next morning was spent taking a dip in the sea with a few family members followed by the delicious signature breakfast at Tree House. To date, we have over 50 signed up for next year’s July Reunion right here at Tree House. We still have rooms available for 9 nights and 10 days of hot reggae nights and cool days of fun in the sun. Interested? Inbox me.

Tree House owner, the lovely Gail Jackson

1 bdrm Oceanview suites

Tree House lobby, “new look”

Tree House lobby, “new look”

Tree House included breakfast. My choice on the buffet today. Grits, waffles, omlettes? Yours if you so desire

Cape Town, Arguably The Culinary Capital of South Africa

Representing at the Most South Western Point of the African Continent

Janet

Mother, daughter Jill Scott and Eve

Mother, daughter, Regina King and Michelle Obama

Night before last I dined alone at the Atlantic Grill in our hotel and one of my very best solo dining experiences. I do not like to dine alone and what was missing was my better half— Mr. Silk. The bread that was placed on the table was called  mos  bolletjies (mos boleki), an Afrikaans term. A cluster of about 7 rolls baked together. The yeast is from partially fermented grapes. Next, there was a gift from the Chef; amuse bouche, French for something that makes the mouth happy.  It was a Demi tasse of  a creamy corn chowder with pepper. Now I was ready for my starter of Blackbeard Mussels (15) in a delightfully flavored broth with finely chopped onion, tomato and fennel which was served with slices of buttered, crusty baguettes of which I only took a couple of bites.  The manager then served me a small dish of  raspberry sorbet to cleanse my palate.  Yes, I was loving the experience.  Now for my main which was a lamb rack with buttered mashed potatoes and a small Caesar salad. I enjoyed every morsel of which everything was prepared to perfection.  There was no room for dessert this evening but to top it all off;  the tab for the evening was a mere 300 Rand which is equal to $30.

FRIDAY —–  We began the day by going to one of the largest Townships called Langa. Desmond arranged for a lovely young lady by the name of Sugah, to walk the group through the community, stopping at the Cultural Center where the group drummed , danced, had a great time interacting. Sugah explained life as she knows it in the Township, even telling them about the purchasing, cleaning and cooking of sheep’s heads. This process takes the women hours. It is a delicacy that most look forward to when the weekend rolls around and this was Friday and they were in full swing. Before leaving Langa, we paid a visit to one of the local Sangomas, the local healer, Indaba. He came on our bus and gave a brief overview of what he does.  He is now in a much smaller container than years before so ther was no way the group could set foot inside. This afternoon was the Robben Island tour, where Nelson Mandela spent 18 years in a one man cell, so a short stop for lunch and a swing by Green Market Square for  a little souvenir shopping  was in order. No shopping for me, I had a plan.  I stayed with the bus and had the driver swing around to Long and Strand Streets to the KFC.  I have been known to walk a mile in a foreign city for some KFC.,  Paris,  Luxor, etc.  in Luxor it was only a block from the hotel but on my return, security stopped me at the entrance and said I couldn’t bring it inside. I said  look , I haven’t eaten since the night before and if they needed to call the Police, get ta callin’ because that chicken was going with me to my room.  I guess they decided they didnt want to tangle with an angry black woman, let alone  a hungry one. So, here I was now in Cape Town, 3 of us placed our orders and waited. I heard some banging on the window and there were 2 transgender ladies telling me how much they loved my hair. They were so animated as they pranced around.  I knew they would be waiting at the exit.  One was about 6 ft, slim build, high cheek bones with a Halle Berry look.  Her name was Chloe but born, Clay. The shorter one and the most talkative was Nikita who was born , Denzel.  As we walked to the bus, they invited us to church. They attend Hillsong but we had already been invited to Covenant Christian Center .   At the bus, I gave them 100 Rand ($10) to share and they skipped happily on down the street.

SATURDAY —–  Breakfast at Table Bay is unlike any other hotel.  To sit in the Atlantic Grill, you’ve got to get up early. Imagine,  over 17 different kinds of fruit some in liquers,  Thai noodles, Stir Fry, Duck Crepes made by the waffle lady .  She takes a crepe, spreads it with plum sauce , adds some spring onions (finely sliced, curled green onions, a few thin slices of cucumber and Voila!   So delicious!   Even though it’s a buffet, your smiling server will take your requests for  any special ordered items.  Champagne anyone?   It’s available and yours for the asking. Today was our Cape Peninsula tour. I’m so glad we had favor for Table Mountain and Robben Island because they are weather permitting but today would have been a problem because it was windy and rainy by it did not dampen our spirits.  We made our way to the most South Western point of the African Continent, seeing baboons, ostriches once we were in the Cape of Good Hope.

Our time here is winding down and it has been one marvelous time. The group came together and bonded so well.  at least 12 of this group will be joining us in Dubai next September. Check http://www.Kattrax.com  for updated info.  And for those of you wanting to experience South Africa next October, please send me an email  rivoli98@yahoo.com

Cape Town! Heaven Must Be Like This, It Must Be Like This….

My Suite at Table Bay

Starter, Gorgonzola and Carmelized Onion Tart

T-bone steak with root vegetables, mashed potatoes and steak butter

Marshmallow Cheesecake and raspberry coulis

Complimentary evening hors d’oeurves at the hotel

A glass of cream sherry and Asparagus wrapped with smoked salmon, creme fraiche, dill and caviar.

View of Table Mountain from my room

Flowers, wine and candy

Mandela Statue in front of Drakenstein Correctional Center

Ready For Our Group at Mont Rochelle

What’s For Lunch?

Lets Toast Kat! How Kind~

We drove the 2 hrs from the game lodge to the Joburg airport. Check in was smooth with plenty of time to spare. We all hated to say goodbye to Joe and Elvis but we had to move on because we had a date with Cape Town. After our 2 hr flight, I was happy to see our guide, Desmond.
As we made our way to the waterfront where our 5 star Table Bay Hotel is located. Desmond gave a bit of history along the way, also mentioning that our president Obama was a guest at our hotel a few months ago and as you can well imagine, everything was on lockdown , security was tighter than a drum with his helicopters swirling overhead. In 2 words this hotel is “sheer fabulosity”.
My suite was filled with candy, fruit, wine and the most beautiful floral arrangement. I had a corner suite that offered the best panoramic harbor and Table Mountain view.

We didn’t have any time to rest because we had a welcome dinner set up for the group in their Atlantic Restaurant. The group dinner menus are hand picked by me as are the wines with my compliments. The wines; pinotage, Chenin Blanc, and a Rose’ seemed to be never ending and the group was having a great time. We had two private adjacent rooms with several servers at our beck and call all under the watchful eyes of one of the managers. My starter was cauliflower soup with a dollop of shredded oxtail. The main I chose was a thick slice of grilled whitefish accompanied with sautéed green beans and Carmelized red onions. For dessert I had the chocolate fondant and pistachio ice cream. Everything was wonderful! I called it a night because we had an early start the next morning.

Thursday morning our first stop was Table Mountain. It was very clear day and the weather was gorgeous, even at 830 am. A few chose not to go up so they hung with me next to the gift shop until the others returned. The cable car transports all 1,086 meters above sea level. They all got fantastic photos and agreed that it was like being on top of the world.

After leaving Table Mountain, we were on our way to the Winelands.  In past years we were hosted by the Rangaka family of M’Hudi Wine Estates., a black owned family run business. They always rolled out the red carpet for us. But now those days are gone. Nevertheless , I had a real treat in store for the group.

Before making our way to our wine tasting and lunch, Desmond stopped to see his old friend Edgar, the Correctional Officer at the last prison where Nelson Mandela spent his last 18 months under house arrest.  Even though we couldn’t go inside like we did 2 years ago due to some political issues, Edgar came to us and explained  each detail of the Mandela statue in front of Drakenstein Prison, formerly called  Victor Verster. He also gave an account of what it was like the day Nelson and Winnie walked out of the prison hand in hand, taking that “Long Walk To Freedom”.

The prison is between Paarl and Franschoeck, about 15 minutes from Mont Rochelle where we were headed for an afternoon of wine tasting and a fabulous lunch.  Mont Rochelle vineyards, hotel and restaurant is off the beaten path and lies in the cut. There’s no stumbling upon this place. One must know where they are going  and Desmond and his driver did a fine job getting us there on time.

These vineyards were purchased in 2001 by billionaire Miko Rwayitare, making him the first black African to own a wine farm in South Africa. Miko made his money in  telecommunications and also owned Hotel Rwanda (Hotel Des Mille Collines).  Sadly, he passed away unexpectedly in 2007 at the age of 65.

It was an honor to be wine tasting  and lunching on this beautiful property on such a lovely day with such a great group.  We were greeted with a glass of sparkling wine and after introductions and an overview of how things would flow, everyone was ordering bottles to taste, yes as much as they wanted. The favorites were reds – Artemis 2008, Merlot 2006, and a Cabernet 2007.  However, the flagship, Miko Chardonnay Sur Lie 2009, loved by all, even those of us who just cannot, will not drink Chardonnay. There is something special about this one.  Lunch was heavenly and the entire day divine.  No doubt, Mont Rochelle gets 2 thumbs up from me.

 

Chillin’ At The Game Lodge, Let’s Do It!

Rock Pool at the Lodge

On The Grounds

My bedroom in the Executive Suite

Executive Suite, private rear patio with plunge pool

Acacia bushes everywhere, this species is sweet thorn

Last night, dinner under the stars at the “Boma”

Some of you may remember my friend, Brenda Joyce, of African Romance, a gemologist from NY invited to South Africa years ago by Nelson Mandela to teach blacks how to cut, polish and grade diamonds. Well, sadly African Romance had to close its doors. Brenda has since relocated to Ghana with a focus on gold mining. At any rate, she still has her Joburg contacts and was able to connect me with Isa Schwartz, daughter of Schwartz Jewelers in business since 1924.
This morning, after checking out of Michaelangelo, Isa met us in the lobby and walked us to their new store 3 minutes away in the adjacent mall. How convenient! They just settled into the new place last week and we were their first customers. Isa is a delightful young lady; bubbly and full of laughter. The diamond jewelry in the showcases was dazzling, blinding and most breathtaking. The store was buzzing with excitement as several made their purchases. They had about 2 hours to shop while us non shoppers waited back at the hotel. A few thought they would play it safe and leave their credit cards and money safe on the bus only to return so they could pay for whatever caught their eye.
Our drive to Ivory Tree Game Lodge was 2 hrs away and we would arrive just in time for afternoon tea followed by our evening game drive. Half way there we had a comfort stop and Lord have mercy, a half hour shopping opportunity at the Chameleon Village. This was a gigantic covered shopping emporium, run by local artisans and reminiscent of the middle eastern grand bazaars. Chameleon, a name I sometimes call our new grand baby, Sakari because her eye color and her looks change daily. I should searched for some baby items for her here but since she likes to beat on throw pillows and her daddy’s tummy; I had already put in an order for one of those leather pillow instruments used by the church folks in Soweto. Who knows? Maybe she’ll be another Sheila E.
As usual we received a warm welcome at Ivory Tree. Check in was nice and quick and golf carts were on hand for those needing assistance getting to their cottages. Afternoon tea was about to begin. Our group was paired with Rangers Sheldon and Carolyn who seemed to be quite cool and knowledgeable. In my vehicle was cousin R Kelly and his crew, Jill Scott and Eve. They were hilarious! This being my 4th time at Ivory Tree and my 6th overall game drive experience, I knew what floated my boat and that happened to be the serenity and solitude of the evening drive as the African sun sets. It wasn’t before I was napping after the first sighting of elephants, gnus, wildebeest, and zebra. Overheard as I was drifting off….”This place is the bomb”, ” the kind of place you take your Boo, only leave your real Boo at home”. What??
Then seeing so many giraffes up close and personal, we noticed the 12″ of hair on the tails. Comment from Eve, “Let me get 5 bundles of that hair”. Gary laughed and said, “yeah, when you get back to the states you’ll say, “y’all don’t know ’bout this South African Giraffe hair”.
Coming out of my nap I noticed night had fallen and we were making our way back to the lodge for dinner; I took this time to reflect on how memorable our Joburg stay was;friendships formed with the local folk and communications that were exchanged with people along this journey. Ms Florence at the church told me she had 3 sons but 2 had already died. Some of you know where that hit me. She asked me, “Who is going to bury me”? She didn’t wait for an answer, not that I had one but she continued in and said, “You will have to come back and bury me”.
Then.  there is Joe Motsogi, our wonderful, soft spoken guide who was incarcerated and tortured for 9 months in 1978 at the age of 25. He was charged with Incitement which amounted to organizing people for non-violent protests. He was held in the jail in downtown Joburg where they placed a plastic hood over his head, threw him in a dam and if that wasn’t enough, attached electrical prods to his genitals. But through it all he remains a kind and peaceful man. Anytime I bring a group to Joburg, Joe will always be my guide of choice.
So now, back at the lodge, I rushed through dinner because I had a date with my outdoor raintree shower under the star filled, black South African midnight sky.

Next stop Cape Town , tomorrow an afternoon flight and we check into the 5 star Table Bay at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront.

Sunday Church Service in Soweto

Children From The Apostolic Church in Soweto

Themba and his lovely lady in Michelangelo Lounge

ANB Stadium in Soweto, holds 74K. TD Jakes and R Kelly have been here

Ms Florence at the church, bless her heart

The Bishop on Our Bus, thanking us for coming

Church Procession

Our morning tour began at 9am after a wonderful breakfast. I dined alone overlooking the Square with The Madiba statue in full view and the melodic trumpet of Hugh Masakela piped-in. We couldn’t have asked for better weather.
Before I begin about this awesome Sunday I must tell you about Saturday. We went to the cultural village of Lesedi. I always look forward to the show even though this is my 6th visit there. Since I have blogged about this so much in the past, I will skip it this time and you will just have to come with me next year. I just chilled at the bar until the group returned for the show and fabulous lunch. That evening a few of us met for drinks in the hotel lounge so they could meet my dear friend and Joburg resident, Themba and his lovely lady. Themba is into filmmaking and always knows all the happenings in all of South Africa. His latest advice for me was to go back to Durban because it’s hot and boomin’. It’s always a delight to visit with him.

As we drive to Soweto on this gorgeous Sunday morning, we had a short prayer from Denise. Joe provided us with his knowledge of the history of this country and the Apartheid system, pointing out landmarks along the way. The group had no idea what they were in for. We arrived at the Methodist Church of Africa in Soweto (Orlando). Joe had set it all up so the Bishop was expecting us. Everyone was outside; bishops in their robes, sisters dressed in burgundy jackets, brothers in long black jackets, little children holding signs representing their groups. They were rocking a smooth rock to the beat of a drum, some bells, and a few beating on these leather pillows. The procession swayed down to the unveiling of a plaque downhill on the church property. They were also dedicating a new building for the Bishop. They prayed and sang in their native tongue, we couldn’t understand the words but the spirit was high and universal. The Bishop explained as we went along and Joe, a Methodist himself was in heaven. After the unveiling, an elderly, frail mother asked me where I was from. I responded California. She then chuckled and said, “Do you think you could get me a ticket”? It was like we were old friends instantly and that appeared to be what was happening with several others as they literally, verbally, “welcomed us home”.
After returning to the bus, the Bishop came on board and thanked us for stopping by. As we drove away, there were a lot of tear-filled eyes.
Next stop was Hector Pietersen Museum and Memorial. He was gunned down by racist police when he was 13 years old during a peaceful march. While they went inside, I learned of the ZCC – Zion Christian Church from our driver, Elvis. They proudly wear these sterling silver Stars of David. They don’t smoke, drink, they believe in Jesus Christ and they are the largest non denominational church in sub Sahara with over 7 million followers. You can tell the various churches by the uniforms they wear and a Sunday in Soweto, you will see many.
We had lunch at Roots Restaurant and Gallery and all seemed to enjoy it. This was a very full day in more ways than one. Of course, they passed Mandela’s mansion in Houghton and the Mandela Museum and Bishop Desmond TuTu’s early abode on the famous Vilikazi Street.
We have an early start tomorrow stopping at the famed Schwartz Jewelers and then on to our 5 star game lodge —-Ivory Tree.

Back in Johannesburg

I’ve been a little under the weather lately but it was good seeing most of the group in NY at the airport. For once I took advantage of wheelchair assistance and it was just what the Doctor ordered. I spent my couple of hours in the first class lounge before the flight and prepared myself for another wonderful adventure. I was lucky to have a real cool lady from Key West by way of New York seated next to me, Jane the Pain. She had a thousand stories to tell and I’ll tell about some one day.
Nonstop from JFK, no stops in Dakar this time, thank God! We even made up time and landed safely before schedule.
Our guide from 2011, Joe, was in the arrival hall to meet us and soon we were at the lovely 5 star, Michelangelo Hotel. Several made their way next door to the mall and Nelson Mandela Square to get a bite to eat. After Joe got us checked in, he was off to be the guide for Kofi Annan for the day. Joe is one of the best guides in Joburg.
Dinner was in the Square at Montego Bay. The food as well as the service was excellent and everyone seemed to enjoy their meal and the 8 bottles of wine, compliments of Yours Truly. Chatter at the table was lively and animated. Dubai was the topic and you know me, I was definitely promoting next September’s trip there. My young folks kept it moving, with one young lady doing a short rendition of Whitney’s, “Saving All My Love For You”. Yes the girl, modest as she was…..could truly blow. Before calling it an evening, they went around the table discussing our celebrity look a-likes. We had Jill Scott and her daughter Eve, Michelle Obama and her mother Regina King, a young Janet Jackson and my cousin R Kelly. Yes, this is going to be a great group. Tomorrow we visit the cultural village of Lesedi. Stay tuned