Salvador Soul

Pool area at Deville Hotel

Hand painted tiles by Prince

Tiles by Prince

Hotel’s soccer field and jogging track

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  Fantastic view from my room at Hotel Deville

  

  Upper City, beginning of the Pelourhino

  

  Freedom fighter, Zumbi

  

  Masks of Benin in Mafro, the Afro Brazilian Museum

   

• We said our goodbyes to Rio and Geraldo and boarded our flight to Salvador da Bahia. A few pople hear “Salvador” and immediately think San Salvador in El Salvador. No folks, not that place located in Central America where they had a brutal civil war ending in 1992. Bahia is a 2 hr flight north of Rio. We are now on the last leg of the trip and its time for a little relaxation. The Deville (dee veal lay) Hotel, 10 minutes from the airport is the perfect place. It offers everything a top resort needs: Fitness, sauna, pool, umbrellas and chaise loungers around the tropical-looking pool area and the raintree shower in the bathroom is just what the doctor ordered. We may be 40 minutes from the pelourhino but we’ll pay our visits the next 2 days, always returning to our oasis, away from the hustle bustle of the historic center of town.Being in Bahia gave the group the opportunity to experience Bahian style cuisine. It definitely has the West African influence. Our package included a welcome buffet lunch which included an array of salads, fruits, desserts, spare ribs (BBQ and roasted, stewed chicken, feijoada (black beans with smoked ham), greens, pastas and much more.The sky was overcast but the weather was quite warm — perfect for lounging round the pool.
  The next day our panoramic tour of the Lower City was scheduled. We stopped by Yemanja House, next to the sea. It’s the meeting place of the local fishermen where they bring offerings to the Goddess of the Sea. We continued along the Carnival route on our way to the lighthouse and learned Carnival is not so special for the locals because its so expensive to get into the parties where it can cost $500usd for admission but of course, there is still lots of partying in the streets. We then drove along Centenery Avenue and saw the beautiful statues of the Orixas (Orishas), rising out of a small lake, 8 life sized, fiber glass statues demonstrate Salvador’s spiritual heritage. Their colors are brilliant, almost blending in with the splashing water, trees and fishing boats.
  There was a mass in progress this day, Sunday, so the group was unable to visit the room of miracles at Nosso Senhor do Bonfim (our Lord of the good end). The walls are covered with photos and testimonials giving thanks for healings. This is where you will see hundreds of colorful ribbons tied to the gates, blowing in the breeze. One day I will tell you about my many healings of which I give God thanks and praises daily. You know that old Congregational church song, “He’s done so much for me, I cannot tell it all”? Well, that’s me!We made a few more stops along the way. A convenient and quite interesting stop was the home of Prince, an elderly gent whose craft of hand painted tiles was amazing. He and his wife open their doors for a restroom and water break while his guests browse his beautiful collection. Not too far from Prince’s casa we all wanted to stop for some of the best ice cream imaginable — The Sorveteria da Ribeira ice cream parlor, voted the best for 10 consecutive years. I guess the secret to their success is that it was founded in 1931 by an Italian immigrant. Ariel had us all wanting to taste the caipirinha flavor but sadly, it wasn’t available. I went for 2 boules (scoops) in a cup — banana and dark chocolate. Mmmmm, it was thee BEST!

  The next day was our African oriented Upper City tour which starts in the historic center. This is the heart and soul —the Pelourhino. This is where the slaves were punished. After slavery was abolished it started to become a rich culture center. It is here that one sees the sights, hears the sounds and tastes the cuisine of all that is West African.

FROM AFRICA TO BRAZIL – After overlooking the city from the top side, we headed towards the historic center, first passing the statue of Zumbi dos Palmares — freedom fighter and last leader of the Quilombos (African refugee settlements). Zumbi was captured and beheaded Nov 20, 1695. Nov 20th is his day, a day of Afro Brazilian consciousness. Zumbi Festival is a major festival and people from all over the world celebrate in the town of Macieo, about an hour’s flight from Salvador. It has also become the national Day of Black Awareness all over the country. Salvador’s rich African heritage has awarded them with the nickname Roma Negra (black Rome).
We made our way to MAFRO – The Afo Brazilian museum, exclusively dedicated to Afro-Brazilian heritage, a museum that documents the slave trade. Various artifacts, masks and other objects tell of everyday life as it was on the African continent. There was also a large map of the slave trade from Africa to the Americas and a huge diagram of a slave ship showing how the slaves were stacked before the long, hot, miserable and treacherous Atlantic crossing – a journey they would endure — never to return. Those that survived faced the grueling work of the mines and plantations that benefited the Portuguese economy. Millions from the Kingdom of Benin were sent to Brazil. 80 percent of African slaves went to Brazil or to the Caribbean; in contrast, only 10% went to the U.S., where slavery was maintained through natural reproduction among the slave population as opposed to the constant supply of new slaves from Africa.

The Pelourhino is more African than some parts of Africa. Last year Nossa Senhora do Rosario dos Pretos (also called the black church) was closed for restoration but we were blessed to enter this time. It was built in the 1700s, took almost 100 years to build by black hands, blood, sweat and tears of slaves and sadly, blacks could not worship there for many years. The interior is astonishingly beautiful with inlaid gold and statues of the church’s few black saints. We also saw where the free blacks sat separated from the slaves. Outside behind the church is a shrine built for slave, Anastasia. She was strikingly beautiful and envied by the slave master’s wife who had an iron mask put on her face. She eventually died from gangrene.

Next to the church is the Gastronomy museum, managed by SENAC, which is one of the first in the world. It displays all that is important to the food and cooking of the Bahian style, ingredients that are essential parts of the Bahian pantry – like grated coconut and dende’ palm oil. SENAC is a Brazilian vocational institute in all major cities in Brazil.

The group’s final lunch together was a real treat, conveniently located on the other side of the museum and also managed by SENAC is the SENAC Restaurant. Its a teaching facility as well as a restaurant where the cooks, bartenders and wait staff are all students. This is by far the best Bahian unlimited buffet around with over 40 available dishes, with at least a dozen types of moquecas – fish, shrimp, etc.

As the tour winds down, I reflect on the past 12 days of this Kattrax adventure and I am reminded of words from my mother after all of our wonderful international trips together, “I have no sad stories to tell”. In other words, it couldn’t have been more perfect, friendships were formed that will last forever, God kept us safe, protected from all hurt, harm and danger and on point about our surroundings as we “tangoed” and “catwalked” in Argentina, “sambaed” in Brazil and last but not least Kat Tracked all over South America.

Please check around your seat for any personal belongings you may have brought on board with you and please use caution when opening the overhead bins, as heavy articles may have shifted around during the flight.
On behalf of Kattrax and the entire crew, I’d like to thank you for joining us on this trip and we are looking forward to seeing you on board in the near future.

Upcoming 2013 Tours: 11 Night Mediterranean Cruise on Celebrity June 17-28
5 Night Exotic Dubai & Abu Dhabi Sept 1-7
9 Night Luxury South African Safari Oct 3-14
14 Night Southeast Asia cruise on Azamara Club’s Journey Nov 25-Dec 9
7 Night New Year’s Cruise on Celebrity to Southern Caribbean Dec 28 – Jan 4

2014 Tours:
La Vie en Noire – Paris Tours March 27 – April 3 &
April 3 -10
10 night Egyptian Odyssey – Includes 4 night Nile cruise Nov 7 – 17
Stay tuned for additional 2014 tours

Rio — City Tour By Jeep

Stairs of Selaron in Lapa

Today’s city tour was by 10 passenger open air jeep with Sergio as our guide. Even though it was a beautiful day it was a little windy so Before we took off we had them close the top cover, leaving just the sides open. First stop was downtown to 15 November Square also known as “15 Square”. This is the historical centre, a public park, an area best seen and safe during the day. It’s the location of the Imperial Palace, where Princess Isabel signed the law which ended slavery in Brazil in 1888. This is also where one takes the ferry to Niteroi. If driving, the bridge from Rio to Niteroi is 14 km.

Someone needed the ATM, someone needed a camera store but what we thought was “just over there” turned out to us being shown on foot enough of downtown Rio to last a lifetime. There was no way we were walking back to from whence we came to connect with the jeep. My instruction to Sergio, “Call the driver and have him pick us up”. After getting back on track, we stopped at the San Sebastián Cathedral, also called the New Cathedral. The design is very different with beautiful stained glass windows to the top in this conical shaped building. It has a natural lighting and air conditioning system and has the standing capacity of 20,000 pople.

The jeep easily navigated the narrow street leading up to the Selaron staircase which is situated between Lapa and Santa Teresa. Even though Selaron is gone, his presence is felt. The area is alive and bustling and now there is a poster of him near the entrance in his memory. As we passed through Lapa, workers were busy blocking the streets and preparing for their weekly weekend street party. Lapa takes on the ambiance and atmosphere of Bourbon Street in New Orleans.

Leaving Lapa, we worked our way up to Santa Teresa, known for its winding, narrow, steep cobblestone streets. It’s filled with colorful, colonial buildings and has become a favorite for artists with studios, galleries, bars, and restaurants. One thing now missing is the historic electric tram which connected the city center with the inner city neighborhood of this area. The tram was taken out of service late 2011 due to a disastrous accident. It’s a quaint laid back area, away from the beach scene but one definitely must stay alert as it abuts the Santa Amaro favela.

Imperial Palace in Square 15 where proclamation was signed that abolished slavery in 1888

Selaron’s staircase in Lapa

After the jeep dropped us off back at the hotel, the Military Police were lined up to escort the Venezuela soccer team (guests at our hotel) to their game. Marilyn got a nice picture with these handsome young men. The young folks had their own agenda while the Aarps had theirs. Personally, I headed straight to the rooftop to enjoy my lunch in solitude while enjoying the fantastic panoramic view of Copacabana.

Tonight was dinner at a churrascaria (Brazilian steakhouse) followed by the high energy Samba Show at Plataforma 1 in Leblon. Some call it a tourist trap but it depends. Their number 1 mistake is having dinner there before the show. My suggestion is dine wherever you choose and then go to the show. The costumes, dancers, capoeira performance, and the drumming is all top notch, that is all except the opening act of the little chick bouncing the soccer ball on her head. In my opinion, her act should be replaced. At any rte, the show is fun-filled and quite enjoyable. Was I in for a big surprise?? At the finale, the MC,who must speak 20 languages, invites people on stage to sing and represent their respective countries. I could not believe my ears when I heard him say, “Kat St Thomas”, WTF? Me? Chillin with my shoes off?, go on stage and sing New York, New York? I thought native New Yorker, Marilyn, would have been best suited but no she threw me under the bus. Matt, joined me on stage, and did his thing, said he didn’t care, wouldn’t see these people again. I knew some of the words but We would have done better with 2Pac’s “California Love” —
California knows how to party, in the city of L.A., in the city of good ol Watts, in the city of Compton, we keep it rockin’ Shake, shake it baby, shake it for me……

If you never plan to make it to Carnival, this experience is one not to miss.
Tomorrow, an 11am flight to Salvador da Bahia.

Samba show

Samba Show

About Kat

At Cooking School in Paris

About Kat.

Rio, Simply Marvelous!

School children posing in front of mural at tram station

Picture perfect! Matt and Madeira on Sao Conrado beach

At 9am Geraldo and Nascimento were at the hotel and all were ready for the tour to Corcovado mountain and Cristo Redentor, a 7th wonder of the world. After arriving at the station, we waited comfortably while Geraldo purchased the tickets but none for me. I would wait, write and people watch until they returned. Geraldo definitely has his connections. His “friend” the ticket taker assured him our group would be on the next tram up through the world’s largest urban rainforest, Tujuca.
After Corcovado we drove past the Botanical Gardens, Flamenco and Botafogo. We also made a pit stop at the largest favela— Rocinha, just so the curious could get a glimpse. Then onto the stretch of south zone beaches of : Sao Conrado, Leblon, Ipanema and then back to our hotel on lovely Copacabana. Our guide makes it a point to show the contrast of the rich, the poor and the middle class.

The favelas get a bad rep but its the beautiful people of the favelas that make Rio go round and round. They are the workers that serve the tourists and every aspect of Carnival — samba dancers, capoeira, costume makers, float builders, musicians, etc. you name it and they make it happen.

Back at the hotel, a few of us went up to the top for appetizers and drinks, sat by the pool and overlooked the beach. It’s been a perfect day and we couldn’t have asked for better weather.

Rio, So Good To Be Back

Panoramic view from Windsor Excelsior

The flight to Rio was 2 hrs.  There was no need to clear customs as this was domestic to domestic.  Our regular guide (4th time) Geraldo met us at the airport.  Not only is this old cat knowledgeable, speaks  7 languages,  and full of jokes but he’s got swag. There is just something special about a guide of color that breaks it down from a black perspective.

Before leaving the states I’d heard that the eccentric, colorful, wild and crazy, Chilean artist, Jorge Selaron famous for the beautiful tile staircase he created in Lapa, was found dead in January.  Geraldo says it was probably suicide but still a mystery. He will be missed but his memory and “Escadaria Selaron ” will live on. You can even see them in one of Snoop Dog’s music videos.

After checking into our hotel, the Windsor Excelsior which directly faces beautiful Copacabana beach,  some of us were off to satisfy our hunger.  On the way to MAB’s for some tasty prawns sautéed in garlic and parsley  I pointed out the Galeto (renamed the chicken shack by my past Rio visitors). Here you can get an inexpensive rotisserie chicken dinner —eat in or take out.  The night air was warm at this partially open air restaurant and we enjoyed  our dinner, sipped our caipirinhas  and listened to a guitarist strumming bossa nova tunes .

It was getting late so I said, “Tchau, tchau” to the group and made my way back to the hotel where I enjoyed the view of Copacabana from my corner unit.

Tomorrow: Cristo Redentor

The Brazilian Perspective

At the exit on the Brazil side

25% of Brazil side

More of Brazil side

After breakfast , we checked out, loaded up and headed to the National Park on the Brazil side. Our hotel Bourbon Cataratas, is located just minutes from the park.  The X Games are in town and several participants  were guests at our hotel. Matthew met Tony Hawk in the elevator and Later we saw the practice skate  board ramps and spectator stands that were set up in the park.

When you’re on the Brazil side you get the best panoramic views .  You’re looking across the Iguassu river while getting a more frontal look at the Falls.   The Brazil side certainly has its positives, like modern double decker buses vs old trains to get you to the trails, lots of trees that provide shade on the walks and  the catwalks are short and sweet.  Once on the trail,  the first photo  opp was absolutely breathtaking and it was only 25% of what was to come. Everyone in our group was thrilled every step of the way until the very end.  There is no way you can travel all the way to the Falls and deny yourself the experience of viewing both  incredible sides.

We were only less than 10 minutes from the airport.  Thank God for favor! We were blessed with a guide that knew the ropes. He took our passports  and checked us in as  the line was ridiculously long.  Next came the security check and lastly,  the baggage check in .  Quite different but different city, different airport, different custom.  Soon we would be in Rio de Janeiro……

Iguassu Falls, Truly Amazing!

Devil’s Throat

Kat on the catwalk

Today our flight to Puerto Iguazu departed from the domestic airport on Aerolineas Argentina. Our guide, Sandra who checked us in and stayed with us to the security entrance definitely gets a thumbs up from me and the entire group. The flight was a short hour and 45 minutes and soon this Kat’s curiosity would be satisfied.  I was about to see a waterfall taller than Niagara Falls  and more spectacular than Victoria Falls Located between Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Those sitting on the starboard side (right side) of the aircraft got a bird’s eye, aerial view as we began our descent. Actually their oohs and ahhs caused those on the left side to unfasten their seat belts and join in with their oohs and ahhs.

After collecting our luggage, we met our guide, Carlos with the “Kat sign”. He informed us of the plan for the day. So we loaded up the bus and headed for the Devil’s Throat. After entering the National park, we took 2 small trains to begin the 15 minute walk on the catwalk. The Falls lie on the Argentina/Brazil border—called Foz do Iguacu in Portugese and Cataratas del Iguazu in Spanish.

The part with the largest volume of water is the narrow horseshoe of the Devil’s Throat.  It is the most powerful of this world wonder and we were on  our way.  Words in my vocabulary cannot describe what I felt upon being so close to such a spectacle.

When one starts comparing Victoria and Iguassu  —-Victoria is larger in width and height but does not offer the catwalks that Iguassu offers plus Iguassu allows you to get in-your-face, up close and personal with the  likes of the turbulent Devil’s Throat.  Since I have now been blessed to see both, I tell you  this is an experience Victoria cannot give you.  It would be a big mistake not to see both in one lifetime .

After lunch, we drove across the border to Brazil to check in our hotel   We had our Brazillian visas so we were good to go .

Tomorrow we will see the Falls from the Brazil side and then fly to Rio de Janeiro

Don’t Cry For Me Argentina

The big steel flower

Statue of Eva Peron

Ricoleta Cemetary
Expensive mausoleums

Mausoleum of Eva Peron

Today was a most beautiful day in every way. We couldn’t have asked for better weather.  After breakfast,  we were picked up by our guide, Sandra and driver Hugo.  We hit all the areas —  San Nicolas (Centro) a bustling area,  the fashionable  area of  Palermo,  the shopping street ; Florida,  the Paris of  South America, Recoleta with her sidewalk cafes and the lively area of La Boca.

One of the city’s latest icons inaugurated in 2002 is the big steel flower. Located in a pool of water in United Nations Square. The petals open during the day and close for the night with a red glow. The square is adjacent to the Law University which is free for all to study, even foreigners. All the tourist sites were filled with bus loads of children because its compulsory for the students to visit as part of their history lessons. Dog walkers are a big thing here in and around the parks. It’s not uncommon to see one with as many as 10-12 dogs.

After stopping by the statue of the notorious Eva Peron, we made our way to her resting place at Ricoleta Cemetery . This place is huge, over 14 acres but only the wealthy have mausoleums here.  Born Maria Eva Duarte  (aka Evita) in 1919 to a very poor family. She had dreams of making it big as an actress and made it to the big city of Buenos Aires at the tender age of 15. Oh, she was the mistress of many before she linked up with dictator husband, the infamous Juan Peron and became his mistress. In 1947 she became the First Lady.  Many despised her  because of her many affairs and  saying she used men to get what she wanted in life but so many loved her because she fought for worker’s rights  and women’s suffrage. She fell ill to cancer and died at the age of 33.  Her funeral lasted 17 days. Three years later the military moved her body to Italy. It took over  20 years for her body to be returned to Buenos Aires. She now lies 16 feet underground, in a crypt fortified like a nuclear bunker, so that no one should ever be able to disturb the remains of Argentina’s most controversial First Lady.  Today was only a half day tour but in essence, quite full .

Tomorrow will be exciting as we fly to Iguassu Falls and walk the “Kat Walk” to view a most amazing sight

A Lovely Day On The Ranch

This morning was sunny but a little breezy. After breakfast we were headed to the San Telmo Flea Market. This market is only on Sunday and similar to the Hippie Fair in Rio but on a smaller scale. Nevertheless, there was something for everyone. I especially was hoping to find some unique fridge magnets like Pope Francis since this is his hometown. Most of you know I’m not that shopper so after about 20 minutes I found a comfortable place to park it and do what I love —–people watch.

Soon we were on our way to Santa Susana Ranch which is about a 1 hr drive north of Buenos Aires. The region is called Pampas. We knew we were going to a fiesta gaucho party/BBQ but it far exceeded our expectations. We were greeted with tasty empanadas and a wine reception. This was followed by a museum tour where furniture, clothing and artifacts have been preserved and kept in tact since the late 1800’s. In the afternoon the weather warmed up quite a bit and this was truly a good day for enjoying the ranch. Our group had our own table, bottles of red, white wine, beer, soft drinks and water were placed on the table. We had several salads served to us and then the meat began to be served: unlimited sausage, chicken, steaks and all served by gents in gaucho attire. A little singing, dancing, and a gaucho show entertained us followed by a horsemanship display outdoors. It all made for a fun-filled day on the ranch. Tomorrow, we’ll get the lay of the land.

Argentina Bound!

My $200 United Airlines ticket from SFO to Miami had 2 connections but thanks to my Gold status I received 2 comp first class upgrades. I had the time so it was all good.

Upon landing in Miami, my home girl , “urban lifestyle specialist”, Robbie Bell, picked me up and off we went. First stop was South Beach.  It was 78 degrees and a perfect day for people watching and taking in all the sights on Lincoln Road. Next we headed to Fort Lauderdale to the Rustic Inn for their famous garlic crab, not to be confused with roasted salt and pepper crab. These babies were loaded with tons of fresh garlic cloves, parsley and butter.  You can order the flavorful blue, king or snow but these  San Francisco natives went for  3 lbs of the dungeness., parsley  potatoes and a wonderful Caesar salad.

A little  after 5 p,  I was checking in at LAN , the national carrier for ArgentIna.  For your  future reference; all US,  Canadian and Aussie travelers, you must have already paid a $160 Reciprocity Fee online with receipt in hand or be denied boarding—-Period! It,  like the Brazil visa is valid for 10 years.  LAN gets 2 thumbs up from me.  Their 767 with a seating configuration of 2-3-2 was spacious and comfortable. Everybody had extra leg room  and the agent freely offered the exit row as long as it remained available and the passenger was of course  exit row qualified.  The inflight service was great on this 9 hr flight and I must admit the food was not bad at all.  Getting through Immigration and Customs was smooth but if you managed to leave Miami without showing a tax receipt , Immigration would catch it here and put you on the first thing smoking back to Miami.

As we exited Customs, our guide was there to meet and greet with the “Kat sign”. Soon we were at our hotel, the 5 star Hilton Buenos Aires, located in the safe and trendy Puerto Madero area.  It has a futuristic look with tons of glass, brass and steel, an architectural beauty to behold with a lovely open atrium area with restaurant, cafe and bar off the lobby.

Of course, some hit the ground running and scoped out the surrounding area while others got some rest before dinner and the Tango show at La Ventana.  Our group got lucky and were upgraded to the “Gala Tango ” show upstairs versus downstairs.  Upstairs is more intimate and classier dining.  Dinner was excellent and the show with the live music, tango dancers, costumes, etc  was fantastic.  The show was over at midnight and I was ready to call it a night.  Matthew and his new wife, in the 25-30 yr set, traveling with his parents quickly gave us over 55 yr old folks a new term,  “Don’t get R-Py on me”  (as in AARP) or “Y’all AARP-ing”.  LOL.

We were back at the hotel by 1230am and my advice to the young folks: have fun, be safe and see ya  tomorrow..